Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Reviews and Food Musings

Text

Fed up with celebrity chefs drizzling sauces over undercooked pieces of meat? I am!

I regularly dine out and am happy to share my restaurant experiences, and musings on food with you.

Showing posts with label service. Show all posts
Showing posts with label service. Show all posts

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Advice To Waiters

If you insist on making gestures with your crotch to kitchen staff, then at least do it outwith the view of your customers!

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Pub With No Name

A jolly gang of four of us dined in Pub With No Name (58 Southover St Brighton) last night.

As the pub's website says:

"Pub With No Name is housed in a rambling building no architect could possibly have designed. You just keep on finding nooks and crannies and interesting places, and another comfy sofa to sit on. Art and photography decorate the walls. And there are screens for sport, too. Upstairs the function room leads onto a split-level beer terrace.


The bar features cask ale, foreign beers and a shots menu, while Rich’s Kitchen provides Mexican food during the week, making way for The Pub With No Name’s famous Sunday lunch."

Lat's night's specials were a "smorgasbord" (yes I know it's the wrong country!) of Spanish Tapas dishes including; cold meats, meat balls, spicy potatoes, tortilla etc etc.

We had every dish from the menu...because we were greedy pigs!

Our conclusion?

Bloody marvellous!

My compliments to chef Rich.

The dishes all arrived within minutes of each other (no tedious wait) and tasted absolutely great.

We were well pleased, well fed and well stuffed.

I have no hesitation at all in recommending Pub With No Name for its food, atmosphere and friendly staff and service.

We shall return!


Tuesday, May 31, 2011

The Old Bank Steak & Ribs

Restaurant

The Old Bank Steak & Ribs
120 St George's Road,
Kemptown Village,
Brighton,
East Sussex
BN1 1EA

Tel: 01273 682200

Website The Old Bank Steak & Ribs

Overview

Last Friday evening Eva and I decided to walk to Kemptown village, to try out The Old Bank Steak & Ribs restaurant that is housed in the old Barclays bank building.

As the name implies, the restaurant specialises in steaks (all aged 28 days) and ribs.

Ambience

The restaurant is a large cheerful, bright, lively, unfussily decorated establishment with tables and booths and an open view of the kitchen.

Menu

The menu offers a good selection of steaks, ribs, chicken and burgers. There is also a smattering of daily fish specials.

Service

When we arrived, at around 8:45, as we hadn't booked we were told that it may well be an hour before we could be seated. Given that we had walked for all of 15 minutes we decided that we would wait, rather than give up at that juncture, and were advised to take a drink in the pub opposite and wait for the restaurant to call my mobile when the table was ready.

We were very impressed and pleased to receive a call within 15 minutes, at 9:00, to tell us that we could come on over!

The welcome and service was excellent, efficient and friendly.

Owing to a misunderstanding/miscommunication with the kitchen my steak came basted in barbecue sauce. I do not actually like barbecue sauce that much, and prefer my meat unfettered. However, our waitress was extremely apologetic and offered without any hesitation to replace the steak. Given that the offer was made without any fuss, and that the food was not inedible and would have resulted in a steak going to waste I declined. The offer made to replace the steak was ample demonstration of good customer service.

Food

I started with the wholetail scampi served with tartare sauce. These were very decent, and decidedly more chunky/meaty than some other establishments serve.

I opted for the rib eye steak for my main course. Not withstanding the barbecue sauce issue (see above) the meat was very tender, tasty and had been cooked medium as requested.

The steak came with chunky chips, which were good. I also ordered onion rings (which were very good, crispy and not greasy) and a dish of green beans fried with garlic and tomato (which was not particularly inspiring, ie bland).

I would recommend that, as this is a steakhouse, side dishes of grilled beef tomato and grilled flat cap mushrooms also be offered (as they are both great accompaniments to steak).

Eva started with the spicy chicken wings. These were very good, both in terms of taste/spiciness and quantity. They came with a first class blue cheese dip.

Eva then opted for a half rack of ribs as a main course. She was delighted with them as they were particularly tasty and succulent, and they came with a most unctuous baked potato.

The meal, which included a decent bottle of champagne, came to £67 including 10% service.

Overall Opinion

A very enjoyable meal, and I am happy to recommend this venue. However, if you don't like barbecue sauce make sure that you state that when placing the order; as the "basting" comes a standard.

We will return, but I will next time ensure my meat is not basted.

Saturday, February 05, 2011

The Townhouse Kemptown

Restaurant

The Townhouse
81-82 St James St
Kemptown
Brighton
BN2 1PA

Tel: 01273 693216

Website The Townhouse

Overview

Eva and popped into The Townhouse in Kemptown the other day for an impromptu lunch.

The Townhouse is relatively new, and is both a bar and restaurant.

It offers contemporary British food (cooked by a head chef who hails from The Dorchester) in a relaxed atmosphere.

Ambience

The Townhouse is a cheerful and bright venue, it has "rustic" wooden tables and brick faced walls. Aside from a dining area, it has a lounge bar and a piano room where you can sit around the Baby Grand Piano on bar stools while drinking!

Menu

The menu offers a good selection of British cuisine including; smoked haddock, roasted cod, crab, steak, rack of lamb and belly of pork.

Service

The service was excellent, efficient and friendly. I was even offered a choice of wood or plastic toothpicks (a first!), which shows great attention to detail.

Food

I had the pork belly, which was slow roasted and served with an apple mash and prune jus. I was very impressed with this dish, the pork was a good sized tasty cut/join,t and the crackling was crispy. The mash was not overpowered by the apple, and went well with the meat.

Eva had one of the specials, beef sausages and mash. This was very good, four thick tasty sausages atop a bed of mash served with a gravy.

The meal, which included some quality beers and very large brandies, came to around £40 from memory (I have lost the receipt!).

Overall Opinion

A very enjoyable meal, and I have no hesitation in recommending this venue. We will certainly be returning, this time for dinner.

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Green's Bar

Restaurant

Green's Bar
136 Freshfield Road
Brighton
BN2 0BR
Tel: 01273 603473

Website Green's Bar

Overview

Eva and popped into Green's Bar the other week (which is nearby us), to sample the new Italian menu that they have introduced.

Green's is both a bar and restaurant near to Queen's Park, owned and run by Paul Green.

It offers an Italian menu, freshly prepared from locally sourced produce.

Ambience

Green's is a light, bright, airy and cheerful establishment that welcomes both drinkers and diners. It also has a large sunny (in Summer!) south facing garden, that can accommodate up to 70.

Paul offers all of his customers a warm and cheerful welcome.

Menu

The menu offers a decent selection of Italian pastas and pizzas. There are no specific meat (carne) dishes as yet on the menu, which to my view is a shame.

However, the menu includes Lasagne, Bolognese, Carbonara and a variety of pizzas and calzones.

Service

The service (by Paul) was very friendly, cheerful and efficient. We even ended up having a few drinks with him after our meal.

Food

I started with the Lasagne.

This, although not as enormous in portion size as other establishments, was by far the best I have ever tasted when dining out. The dish was rich, smooth and unctuous, it literally melted in my mouth.

I then chose the Bolognese for my main course. This was a decent sized portion of a traditional dish. The beef mince in tomato, mushroom and red wine sauce had body and flavour without being overpowering. The spaghetti was fine, although rather whiter in colour than I am accustomed to seeing.

Eva started with the Tricolore Insalata (beef tomato with mozzarella and avocado). This was a well presented dish, and was by all accounts very pleasant in texture and flavour.

For her main course, Eva chose the Pizza Espanol (tomato, chorizo, mozzarella and peppers). This comes on a thin crust and was, by all accounts excellent; most notably the thin crust actually had flavour, unlike many other places that present pizzas made from a rubber like tasteless substance masquerading as dough.

The bill, which included wine and liqueurs, came to around £60.

Overall Opinion

A very enjoyable meal, and worthwhile visiting (most especially if you live in the Queen's Park/Hanover area, as well run local enterprises should be supported).

We look forward to returning again.

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Thistle Grosvenor Brasserie Bar Revisited

Thistle Grosvenor Brasserie Bar Revisited

In November I wrote about the decline in service standards at the newly renovated Thistle Grosvenor Brasserie Bar, which was once a very decent and customer focused bar.

Sadly, despite having been assured by management that my concerns would be addressed, standards have not improved.

I went there last night for a quick drink on my way to the West End. The Brasserie Bar had been hired out for a party (the old bar had two rooms which allowed parties to be held without inconveniencing regular customers), therefore I had to go to the lounge next door. I was advised by the "head man" that there were no tables available and that I would have to sit in the corridor (on ridiculously small and uncomfortable seats).

I asked for a gin and tonic and "meekly" took my seat. Ironically, some 30 seconds after I had been told that there were no seats in the lounge, I saw a couple (who had just come in behind me, and had not reserved a table) being promptly shown to a "free" table by the same member of staff.

Needless to say, having waited for a couple of minutes without any sight or sound of my drink appearing, I left.

On my way out I spoke to another member of staff about the issue, she was very apologetic but honest enough to admit that the new bar and service arrangements were not good.

Until the management of the hotel sort this out, I am very sad to say that I most certainly do not recommend this venue to anyone.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Question For Southern Rail

Question For Southern Rail

Why oh why has your trolley service abandoned the serving of separate miniatures of spirits and mixers, and replaced them with pre mixed cans of cocktails?

These pre mixed concoctions taste vile!

Thursday, August 05, 2010

Cote Brighton

Restaurant

Cote
115-116 Church Street
(Opposite The Dome)
Brighton BN1 1UP
Tel: 01273 687541

Website Cote

Overview

The Cote chain, which offer "simple freshly prepared French food at value for money prices", recently (two weeks ago) opened a new restaurant in Brighton.

Eva and I decided to test it out last Sunday evening.

Ambience

Cote is a lively, buzzing, airy bar and bistro. It has ample space, comfortable unpretentious seating/tables and a welcoming atmosphere. It also has a very pleasant outside decked area.

Menu

The menu offers a good selection of French bistro food including; Seared Scallops, Steak Tartare, Moules Marinieres, Mushroom Crepes, Roast Duck Breast and Breton Chicken.

Service

The service was very friendly, cheerful and efficient.

Food

I started with the steak tartare.

This came with the egg already mixed in (something I personally prefer to do myself). However, it was very good and consisted a decent portion of tender minced steak well balanced with shallots, capers, cornichons, egg yolk and cognac.

Eva opted for the smoked salmon, which she professed to be excellent. The dish consisted of sliced smoked Scottish salmon with dill, shallots, baby capers and creme fraiche dressing.

I chose the half chargrilled "Breton" chicken (corn fed chicken from Languidic in the north of France) for my main, with fries. I eschewed having any sauce with it, as the chicken if well cooked should have enough flavour to stand on its own.

I was not disappointed, the chicken was succulent, not overcooked and had an excellent flavour.

Eva had the steak hache, an excellent tender pan fried steak served with garlic butter and mashed potatoes.

A most excellent meal!

I do have one request, please could you serve Absinthe (I understand you have the bottle behind the bar but do not serve the drink for some reason)?

The bill, including a bottle of Viognier, some cognacs and service, came to £78.

Overall Opinion

Good value, great atmosphere; we will most certainly be coming back!

Thursday, October 22, 2009

The Dover Castle (Brighton)

The Dover Castle (Brighton)

My compliments to the Dover Castle:

43 Southover Street
Brighton
West Sussex
BN2 2UE
Telephone: 01273 889808

Eva, myself and a friend from Sweden dined there last night and had thoroughly enjoyable time and meal.

The menu specialises in fish, sourced daily from the locality, the selection on offer is written on a blackboard and as the evening wears on the dishes that run out are crossed out. Other non fish dishes are also available.

Being a "contrarian" I had the steak and chips, which was first class; the steak was tender and succulent, and the chips, onion rings, peas and tomato all ticked the right boxes taste and portion wise.

The butternut squash soup and mezze, that we also scoffed, were likewise excellent.

The selection of beers, lagers (including Asahi) and wine is decent and the staff are very friendly, easy going and service minded (eg I appreciated being offered a smaller (and cheaper) bowl of soup as a starter).

All in all a good place to have a reasonably priced, good quality meal in a friendly atmosphere.

Monday, August 10, 2009

The Terraces (Brighton) Revisited

The Terraces (Brighton) Revisited

Eva and I revisited The Terraces on Saturday evening, and had a splendid meal.

My chorizo and poached egg starter was sublime, and my rack of lamb tender, succulent and unctuous.

Eva's fish, chips and mushy peas were cooked to perfection.

The service was first class, and very friendly. We were offered blankets when the wind became chilly, and were found a table inside when the elements finally defeated us without any fuss.

There was even a free firework display by the pier (not laid on by the restaurant) that topped the evening off.

I wish the new manager (who started a couple of weeks ago) all the very best.

Well worth visiting!

Tuesday, August 04, 2009

Nasza Revisted

Eva and I revisited Nasza (Brighton's Polish restaurant) again last week, to see how they were getting along following up on my recommendations.

I am pleased to say that the issues identified in my earlier review have been addressed:

1 The service was far better.

2 There is now a vodka list.

3 There is now a modest wine list, of wine that is drinkable.

4 Credit cards are now accepted.

Nasza is now worth visiting.

Saturday, July 04, 2009

The Terraces

Restaurant

The Terraces Bar and Grill
Madeira Drive
Brighton
BN2 1PS

Phone: 01273 545 250

Website www.the-terraces.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I decided to treat ourselves to an alfresco lunch on the seafront last week, and chose The Terraces.

The Terraces is an art deco bar and grill that serves Mediterranean and British food.

Ambience

The Terraces is a glass fronted two storey art deco rotund bar and grill, facing the seafront.

The decoration is modern, minimalist and cheerful, with an open fire inside for the winter, and decking outside for dining and drinking alfresco in the summer months.

We dined outside facing the sea, superb weather and superb views!

Menu

The Terraces offers a selection of Mediterranean and British dishes; eg bruschetta, fishcakes, Chorizo on sweet potato, Mezze, steak, pasta and fish and chips. On Sundays they also offer traditional roasts.

Service

The service was very friendly, cheerful and efficient. Nothing was too much trouble, and the jug of Pimms prepared by the staff was by far the best (wrt generosity of fresh fruit etc) that I have had when dining out.

Food

I opted for the rib eye steak, eschewing the pepper sauce for two fried eggs instead.

The steak was a decent piece of meat (cooked medium rare), and was tender and succulent. Ideally complemented by my two eggs and fries.

Eva opted for the rope grown mussels in white wine sauce. These were superb, and were served in an amusing large earthenware pot that resembled a flower pot.

A great lunch!

The bill (including a jug of Pimms, a pint and two Irish coffees) came to around £60.

Overall Opinion

We really enjoyed the lunch and liked The Terraces very much. I guarantee that we will return.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Nasza

Restaurant

Nasza
22 St James Street
Brighton
BN2 1RF

Phone: 01273 622770

Website Under construction

Overview

Eva and I visited Nasza (pronounced Nasha), the very newly opened (less than a week) Polish restaurant on the site of what used to be the the St James restaurant, last Saturday.

Ambience

Nasza is decorated in the style of a rustic Polish bar/eatery. Diners can sit in the front (cafe style) area, at the bar or in the main part of the restaurant towards the back of the premises. Owing to a large skylight, the main area was a little drafty.

Inexplicably there was no salt on the tables, we had to request some. We also had to ask for our candle to be lit, a small issue but indicative of a lack of attention by staff.

Menu

Nasza serves a selection of traditional Polish dishes including; marinated herring, sausage platter, cabbage parcels, Polish dumplings, Polish stew, beef Goulash and pork knuckles.

Unfortunately, owing to some problems with the wine supplier, there was no wine menu and the only wine on offer was Paul Masson the over hyped Californian paint stripper.

Service

The service was friendly, if a little erratic as the staff were still finding their feet. The main course took a little while to arrive, probably due to the restaurant only being open for less than a week.

Food

I opted for the sausage platter to start with. This consisted of a generous selection of Polish sausages and charcuterie served with two slices of bread and butter. A very good starter.

I chose the Golonka for my main course. This was a slow cooked pork knuckle (similar to the German eisbein) served in a rich vegetable and beer sauce with mashed potatoes.

This was an excellent dish, hearty and tasty. The pork had been properly cooked, and the meat fell off the bone with little effort from my knife.

Eva started with the vegetable and white bean soup. This was tasty and of a decently thick consistency, an ideal comfort food.

She chose the Golabki for her main course. These were cabbage parcels stuffed with meat and rice, accompanied by mashed potatoes and a mushroom sauce.

This was a good quality dish in terms of portion size and taste. The cabbage parcels were delightful, and the sauce provided and excellent accompaniment.

We finished off with a number of chilled vodkas.

Inexplicably, despite having several vodkas available which were properly chilled, Nasza does not advertise the fact by having as vodka list. I regard this as a missed opportunity for building the brand and reputation of what could be a very decent local Polish restaurant. My advice is for Nasza to add to their variety of vodkas, and to publish a vodka menu.

Regarding the truly awful Paul Masson wine, we managed to drink a glass each then gave up as it was quite awful. I opted for a Polish beer instead. I recommend that Nasza ensure that their wine cellars are stocked with wine that is drinkable, and that they provide a wine list.

The meal, which included the undrinkable wine, came to £57 before service. Seemingly Nasza was also having teething problems with the credit card companies, and had not yet installed a system for accepting credit card payments; ie "cash only" was the policy of the restaurant. Clearly this issue needs to be addressed with urgency, as it will deter customers.

As a piece of general advice to all those wanting to open a restaurant, it is essential that issues such as this are addressed before opening (even if that means the opening has to be delayed); a bad impression created in the first few weeks is difficult to erase.

Overall Opinion

Nasza, once it has addressed the teething problems identified in this review, may well be worth visiting in the future. I wish them well, and hope they take on board my recommendations.

Opinion Now updated after another visit.

Thursday, April 09, 2009

The Blue Man

Restaurant

The Blue Man
11 Little East Street
Brighton
BN1 1HT

Phone: 01273 32 5529

Website www.bluemanrestaurant.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I visited The Blue Man restaurant in the Lanes area of Brighton the other week.

The Blue Man opened six years ago and was the first North African restaurant in Brighton. It operates from the premises that used to be Momma Cherri's Soul Food Shack.

Ambience

The restaurant is on two floors, and is sumptuously decorated with North African and Moroccan artifacts. In the basement you can recline on inviting divans, on the ground floor more traditional, but comfortable, tables and chairs are available. The lighting is subtle, and the atmosphere romantic and inviting.

An absolutely charming establishment!

Menu

The menu offers a variety of Moroccan/North African dishes (a la carte and set) including, soup, lamb sausages, Kefta (minced lamb in filo pastry), Halloumi, lamb shank with dates, fish and a variety of Tagines.

Service

The service was very friendly, warm, welcoming and efficient.

Food

I opted for pumpkin soup to start with, which was spicy and aromatic.

I chose the house speciality, Khrouf, a lamb tagine for my main course with couscous and a side dish of Batata Coucha (Moroccan tortilla – layered dish with potato, herbs and eggs).

This was absolutely first class, the lamb melted in my mouth and was complemented by the unctuous sauce it was cooked in of cinnamon, prunes and chickpeas. The couscous was just the right size to add bulk to the meal, and the side dish of Batata Coucha was perfect.

Eva started with the Merguez sausages (spicy handmade lamb sausages with steamed fennel, spinach and harissa). These were bloody marvellous, tender and flavoursome. I guarantee that I will have these next time that we dine there!

For her main course Eva opted for the other house speciality Maaza (goat tagine served with saffron couscous). This was a real delight, the meat was tender and flavoursome. She was very happy with her choice.

We shared a desert of grilled fresh figs with hot with ice cream and ginger honey. A lovely desert, and more than enough to share between the two of us.

The meal, which included a bottle of Cruzares Blanco and a couple of liqueurs, came to £61 before service.

Overall Opinion

A delightful evening and restaurant. We heartily recommend it, and will be most assuredly returning.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Bodega D Tapa

Restaurant

Bodega D Tapa
111 Church Street
Brighton

Phone 01273 674 116

Overview

Eva, myself and a friend dined at Bodega D Tapa last night, a regular haunt of ours when we have a hankering for some good quality Tapas.

Bodega D Tapa is a small wine-cum-grocery store and Tapas bar, which seats (at a guess) about 15 people inside and another 15 or so outside in the courtyard.

Ambience

Bodega D Tapa is intimate and rustic, small wooden tables and wobbly wooden benches add to its charm.

Given the size of the place you will be hard pressed to find a table on a busy Friday or Saturday. However, an option that we use is to pop in and ask for one to be kept for us in say 30 minutes, whilst we have a drink in the Waggon and Horses next door.

Menu

The menu offers a variety of Tapas including; pate, Spanish omelette, anchovies on bread, chorizo, chorizo casserole, a selection of Iberian meats (served on a wooden paddle) and fabada.

Service

The service is always enthusiastic and friendly. One person looks after the entire operation wrt service of food and drink, in a relaxed yet professional manner.

Food

We took a large number of dishes to share, which were all delightful. My particular favourites being the omelette and the fabada.

The meal, which included two bottles of wine and brandy coffees came in at well under £40.

Overall Opinion

A splendid establishment, which we are happy to frequent on a regular basis.

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Pomegranate

Restaurant

Pomegranate
10 Manchester Street
Brighton
BN2 1TF

Phone 01273 628 386

Website www.eatpomegranates.com

Overview

Eva and I visited Pomegranate in the Kemp Town area of Brighton the other week.

Pomegranate is a contemporary Kurdish restaurant, that serves a range of middle eastern dishes.

Ambience

The restaurant is on two floors and is very cheerful, modern yet cosy and charming (it has exposed brick fireplaces and wooden floors). The walls are decorated with a number of pictures painted by Hassan Tunc, who is also the owner and head chef.

His wife, Zelal, is in front of house and provided us with a very warm and charming welcome.

The Tuncs have run Ararat restaurants in Dallas and Austin in Texas; Hassan is also well known in the art world with a gallery in Seattle, Washington, also training as a chef in France.

Menu

The menu offers a variety of middle eastern dishes including; Tabulli, stuffed peppers, shish kebabs, lamb and beef with pomegranate.

Service

The service by Zelal was charming, friendly, efficient, and extremely attentive. Nothing was too much trouble.

Food

I opted for chicken kebabs as a starter. These were delightful, lightly spiced and seasoned served atop a small salad. A first class starter.

My main course was lamb shank with a light apricot sauce, accompanied by rice. The shank had been braised gently for a number of hours. The meat was succulent, tender and flavoursome and fell of the bone.

Eva started with prawns with garlic and hot pepper, these were piquant but not overpowered by the garlic or pepper.

She then had the chicken breast topped with walnuts. The breasts were grilled and served with walnuts, butter and rice. A very pleasant dish, the walnut perfectly complementing the chicken.

We also shared a side dish of garlic mashed potatoes, which tasted fantastic.

Dessert, a rarity for us, consisted of a bowl of stuffed figs with walnuts, honey topped with pomegranate paste. They were absolutely delightful.

The meal, which included a bottle of Chablis and a large number of Irish coffees came to £105 including service.

Overall Opinion

A splendid restaurant, which is well worth visiting.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Squirrel Direct

Squirrel Direct

Those of you with a yearning for squirrel, but with trouble finding a supplier, are in luck.

Otterton Mill in Devon is soon to launch an online squirrel ordering service for caterers and individuals, called Squirrel Direct.

Otterton Mill cooked squirrel kebabs recently for a game fair, and received such positive feedback that it decided to launch its squirrel based venture online. They estimate that they may well be able to sell between 20,000-25,000 per annum.

Given the current economic downturn, they may well be right.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Albert's Table

Restaurant

Albert's Table
49B South End
Croydon
CR0 1BF

Phone 0208 680 2010

Website www.albertstable.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I visited the newly opened (so new the smell of paint was still in the air) Albert's Table a fortnight ago, and gave it a "test drive".

Albert's Table opened on the site of a Chinese restaurant on Tuesday 29th July, and serves, to quote their website:

"..dishes created from quality British ingredients chosen when they are in season and at their best. There are so many farmers in the UK producing world class meat, dairy and vegetables and these are the ingredients that we will be using at Albert's table.

The style of food is very much British, but with a slight modern take to include some of the best influences from Europe.

Our fish is all British and delivered daily. We work with the fishmongers very closely to ensure that we get the freshest fish every day and when we use farmed fish it is always organic
."

Joby Wells, the head chef, has worked at some top restaurant in London including; The Square and The Orrery.

Ambience

The restaurant is bright, white, spacious and modern. Decoration is minimalist, and the room is well lit. When we went there is was reasonably busy, which gave the place atmosphere.

As with some other restaurants Albert's table suffers from excessively cold air conditioning, I am of the view that less is more.

Menu

The menu offers meals of two and three courses for £25 and £27.50. The dishes offered include; traditional raised Middlewhite pork pie, warm duck salad, short crust tart of Dorset crab, chicken breast with lasagne and pork belly dry marinated in lemon.

Service

The service was very efficient, and extremely attentive. The bizarre issue over the mashed potato (see below) was resolved by our waitress, who persuaded the chef that the customer has a say in what goes on the plate.

That being said, there seemed to be a rather lengthy delay between the first and second course; newly opened teething problems in the kitchen I assume.

Food

I began with the traditional raised Middlewhite pork pie, served with cider jelly & gooseberry compote. The pie was first class, a quality pork lightly seasoned with herbs surrounded by a light pastry. However, the compote that accompanied it was far too strong, and totally overpowered the dish. I believe that good quality dishes such as this do not need their taste destroyed, they are good enough to stand alone on the plate.

My advice would be to either tone down the compote, or present the pie with a small salad, or quail's eggs.

My main course was saddle of lamb which, according to the menu I could not have this with mash (even though mash was available with the beef) which I wanted. I was told that the chef only allocated a certain number of pritons of vegetables per day, and does not like to swap the vegetables between dishes.

Quite ridiculous!

It was highly unlikely that there would be sudden rush of new customers at that time of the evening. Additionally, I am of the view that the chef is there to serve the customer not the other way round.

Our waitress managed to persuade chef to allow me to eat mash with the lamb.

That issue having been resolved, I settled down to enjoy my main course when it arrived. I am pleased to say that the lamb was first class, succulent and tender with just the right amount of fat to add flavour; as was the mash.

Eva began with baby artichokes poached in white wine and olive oil, with shallots, Parmesan and a poached egg. Absolutely delicious!

She chose the organic roast salmon with potato gnocchi, leek hearts & grilot onions with béarnaise sauce for her main course. This was excellent, the salmon was cooked and flaked to perfection and was well complemented by the gnocchi and leeks.

We, rather rarely for us, then chose a dessert (the posset). The posset (a mixture of cream, egg yolks and booze) was a delight, and was accompanied by fresh raspberries.

The meal, which included a bottle of Chablis and some coffees/liqueurs, came to £104 including service.

Overall Opinion

In our view the food is first class, once initial teething troubles (eg air conditioning and mash servings) are addressed, this restaurant is worth visiting.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Greed

Greed

Not content with marking food up by hefty percentages, and adding in service charges of 10% or more, some of the country's top restaurants are accused of being excessively greedy with their mark ups on wine as well.

The Fat Duck, in Bray, Berkshire, charges £58 for a bottle of 2005 Bourgogne Aligote. However, the Telegraph contacted the restaurant's supplier, Berkmann Wine Cellars, and discovered that the purchase price was £12.12 per bottle; giving the Fat Duck a fat profit of five times the cost.

The Telegraph conducted a similar exercise at Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons, in Great Milton, Oxon, owned by Raymond Blanc. A 2006 bottle of Corbière La Tour Château Grand Moulin costs £26. The wine can be bought from their supplier, the General Wine Company, for £5.37 – a profit of £16.08 after VAT.

At Fifteen Cornwall, near Newquay, which was founded by Jamie Oliver, a 2006 bottle of Belisario Verdicchio di Matelica sells for £27. The same bottle can be bought for just £6.08 from the restaurant's supplier, Liberty Wines, which means a £16.20 profit per bottle after VAT.

The solution to this excessive greed is simple, use other restaurants that are more reasonably priced.

Greed will simply price these places out of the market.