Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Reviews

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Fed up with celebrity chefs drizzling sauces over undercooked pieces of meat? I am!

I regularly dine out and am happy to share my restaurant experiences, and views on food, with you.

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Odin's

Restaurant

Odin's
27 Devonshire Street
London
W1

Phone:- 0207 935 7296

Website www.langansrestaurants.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I went up to London the other day to try out one of the Langan's chain of restaurants, Odin's. It was founded by the late bon viveur Peter Langan, who partied hard, as per the New York Times:

"Langan was burned in a fire at his home in October 1988 and died on the 8th of December 1988 at the age of 47.

Mr. Langan, whose Langan's Brasserie in Mayfair was a favorite with entertainers, was co-owner with the actor Michael Caine
."

Odin's tries to stay true to his memory by serving indulgent food in a relaxed atmosphere.

Odin's serves hearty 2 and 3 course set meals that are English and French in inspiration. It is rumoured to be well liked by celebrities, keen to avoid the unwanted attention of the public and paparazzi.

You should note that it is not open at the weekends.

Ambience

The restaurant is a joy in itself to visit, as it houses a remarkable collection of artwork copiously hung throughout the walls of the restaurant. The walls are adorned with pieces by Hockney and Patrick Proctor, in fact the walls are positively groaning under the weight of the artwork hanging there.

The restaurant is luxurious, yet cosy and intimate, the tables are laid with linen cloths and napkins, and the seats soft and comfortable. Indeed our table was furnished with two rather fine low back armchairs, which definitely encouraged one to linger.

We had booked for 8:30PM, the restaurant was not that busy and indeed seemed a little "hushed". However, as the evening progressed a few more people entered and the mood livened up.

Menu

The menu offered an excellent range of French/English cuisine which can be taken in the form of two or three set courses. The dishes are changed regularly. However, on the evening that were were there the menu included; roast duck, stuffed guinea fowl, grilled seabream, veal, smoked eel and sausage and mash.

Service

The staff were highly professional and efficient. However, they were at first a little stiff not smiling as naturally/genuinely as they could have done. They did "loosen" up as the evening progressed, and managed to smile more warmly towards the end.

Food

I started with the tortellini with prosciutto ham in a tomato and garlic sauce. This was a highly enjoyable dish, small parcels of tortellini wrapped around delicately flavoured ham accompanied by an exquisite tomato and garlic sauce. A perfect combination of taste and texture, not overpowered by the sauce. I was more than pleased with this as a starter.

I chose the roast duck for my main course. This was undoubtedly, and I do not exaggerate here, one of the best ducks that I have had in a long time. The duck had been well cooked so that no blood oozed forth when I cut into it, yet it was still moist and flavoursome, the skin crispy and moreish.

I would also emphasise that the duck portion was a very good size indeed, consisting of; leg, thigh and a very large breast. A far cry for some of the dry disappointments that have been served to me in other establishments. It was accompanied by a very generous portion of home made sage and onion stuffing and apple sauce; these were ideal accompaniments for this noble bird.

Eva started with the seared scallops in saffron sauce. She was absolutely delighted with her choice, as the scallops were tender and beautifully complimented by the delicate sauce.

She chose the breast of guinea fowl, stuffed with bacon and tarragon in a Madeira sauce for her main course. A true delight, the breast had been cooked to perfection and the taste when combined with the stuffing was unctuous.

Our main courses were accompanied by paprika potatoes and carrots.

Rather unusually I decided also to have a dessert, and went for the date and ginger pudding. This was superb, a strong ginger flavour matched by an unbelievable sweetness.

Eva had the creme brulee which was a real treat, a crispy caramlelised top contrasting against the moist decadent underside.

The meal, which included a bottle of Chablis and liqueurs, came to £131 including service.

Opinion

A first class restaurant which is well worth a visit. We are more than happy to recommend it.

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