Eva and I hadn't darkened the door of Cote Brighton in donkey's years – life, you know, gets in the way with its endless parade of deadlines and daft distractions. But last night, Saturday the 15th of November, we thought, sod it, let's treat ourselves to some proper French flair right here on the Sussex coast. And crikey, what a belter of a decision that turned out to be. Cote, that cheeky little slice of Paris tucked away on Church Street (opposite the Dome, if you're navigating with a post-booze haze), has had a bit of a spruce-up since our last jaunt. The menu's been given a right good makeover, ditching the old Poulet Breton for whole or half roast chickens that promise (and deliver) on the comfort front. Oh, and unlimited fries? With a parade of sauces to drown 'em in? It's like they've been reading my mind – or perhaps just the collective cravings of Brighton's hungry hordes.
We rocked up around 8pm, and the place was humming like a well-oiled beehive. We had a reservation and they squeezed us in at a cosy corner table away from the door and windows as requested. If you're plotting a visit, do the sensible thing and book ahead via their website, especially on a weekend when the city's buzzing with weekend warriors.
The Vibe: All the Charm of a Parisian Bistro, Minus the Attitude
Atmosphere-wise, Cote's nailed that effortless French cool in a modern bistro style. Service? Spot-on from the off. Our waitress was professional, welcoming and service orientated. Busy as it was, the kitchen kept the plates coming at a clip that matched our appetites – though more on that herb butter hiccup later.
Menu Makeover Magic: Hello, Unlimited Fries and Saucy Shenanigans
Blimey, the changes! That old Poulet Breton's been shown the door in favour of succulent whole or half roast chickens, roasted to crispy-skinned perfection and served with a flurry of sides. And the fries? Unlimited!
What We Tucked Into: A Feast Fit for Francophiles
Starters kicked off with king prawns – plump, garlicky beauties grilled till they sang, drizzled with a herb oil that had us mopping up every last drop with crusty bread. Then, chicken liver parfait for me – silky smooth, not a whiff of off-notes, spread thick on toasted brioche with a sharp chutney to cut through the richness.
Mains? We couldn't resist the Cote staples. Eva's steak frites arrived medium as requested, juicy and charred just so, with those endless fries piled high and a side of herb butter melting into salty oblivion. I plumped for the half roast chicken, flesh tender enough to forgive any poultry past traumas. We shared a bottle of Merlot – fruity, full-bodied, the perfect foil to the meats without overwhelming the palate. And the drinks? A couple of complimentary Blanc de Blancs on arrival (cheers to that generous touch), followed by a cheeky procession of tequilas to round off the evening. Smooth as silk, those – none of your firewater nonsense.
The Bill and the Buzz: £155 Well Spent, With One Tiny Quibble
When the chit came, including service, it tallied a very reasonable £155 for the pair of us – that's two starters, two mains, a bottle of plonk, fizz on the house, and enough tequila to fuel a small fiesta. Bargain for the quality, if you ask me. We left with bellies full, hearts merry, and not a complaint in sight. Well, almost: the only fly in the ointment was the second portion of herb butter (Cote offers unlimited fries and sauces now) for my chicken. It arrived fashionably late for the second pat – by then, I'd hoovered up the lot. In a place that busy, these things happen, but a nudge to the kitchen might sort it for next time.
All in all, Cote Brighton's back on our must-return list with bells on. If you're in Hove or the Lanes and fancy French food that's proper without the pretension, leg it down there. You won't regret it – unless you're on a diet, in which case, tough luck.
Fancy recreating a bit of that magic at home? I've got my eye on The French Brasserie Cookbook by Daniel Galmiche (affiliate link – helps keep the blog frying), packed with recipes for parfaits and frites that'll have your kitchen smelling like the Champs-Élysées. Or crack open The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson (another affiliate nod) to geek out on that Merlot magic.
What's your go-to French fix in Brighton? Drop a comment below – I'd love to hear, and maybe even swing by for a rematch.
Posted by Ken Frost on Sunday, 16 November 2025
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