Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Reviews and Food Musings

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Fed up with celebrity chefs drizzling sauces over undercooked pieces of meat? I am!

I regularly dine out and am happy to share my restaurant experiences, and musings on food with you.

Saturday, February 22, 2025

A Taste of History: The Legacy of English’s of Brighton Now Up For Sale


Nestled in the heart of Brighton’s historic Lanes, English’s of Brighton stands as a timeless beacon of culinary tradition. Known as the city’s oldest seafood restaurant, its story stretches back over a century, weaving together a rich tapestry of local lore, exceptional seafood, and a parade of famous faces who have graced its tables. For generations, it has been a cherished institution, lovingly stewarded by the Leigh-Jones family since 1945. Yet, as of February 2025, this beloved establishment is up for sale—a bittersweet moment that prompts both reflection on its storied past and hope for its future.
 
The origins of English’s trace back to at least the 1890s, when it began serving seafood from its location at 29-31 East Street, a site originally comprising three fishermen’s cottages dating back over 400 years. Seafood has been savoured here for over 150 years, a testament to Brighton’s maritime heritage. By the time the Leigh-Jones family took ownership in 1945, the restaurant had already cemented its reputation as a go-to spot for locals and visitors alike. Under their care, English’s flourished, blending old-school charm with silver-service hospitality—a rarity in an era increasingly dominated by fast food and fleeting trends.
 
The walls of English’s whisper tales of its illustrious patrons. Over the decades, it has welcomed a dazzling array of luminaries, from literary giants to silver-screen stars. Though records don’t confirm Charles Dickens himself dined here—his era predates the restaurant’s known history—the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh, and Judi Dench have all left their mark, their signed photographs adorning the dining room as a “hall of fame.” More recently, the restaurant has hosted modern icons like Ewan McGregor, Jeremy Irons, and Joan Collins, alongside political figures such as Tony Blair and even Winston Churchill, who reportedly favoured a window booth now dubbed the “Churchill Table.” This roll call of the famous underscores English’s status as more than just a restaurant—it’s a cultural touchstone, a place where history and gastronomy intertwine.
 
The Leigh-Jones family’s stewardship has been the backbone of this legacy. Since acquiring the restaurant in the post-war years, they’ve preserved its essence: fresh, seasonal seafood, warm hospitality, and an ambiance that marries tradition with a touch of elegance. The painted frieze in the main dining room, depicting joyful diners and subtly featuring the visage of an early owner, is a nod to this continuity. Even the ghostly gentleman in a top hat, said to occasionally stroll through the kitchens, seems to approve of the family’s dedication. Their commitment extended beyond the plate—English’s was among the first in Brighton to embrace sustainability, partnering with local suppliers and achieving a “Zero to Landfill” status with Paper Round Brighton.
 
Yet, all eras must evolve, and the news that English’s is now on the market for £1,250,000, as listed by Carr & Priddle, brings a pang of melancholy. The Leigh-Jones family, after nearly eight decades at the helm, are stepping away—likely to retire, as some speculate, though their exact reasons remain their own. Posts on X from locals and fans reflect a shared sentiment of loss, with one noting it as a favoured spot for a “fish lunch on the terrace during conference time.” The sale marks the end of an era for a family-run gem that has weathered wars, cultural shifts, and the rise of chain eateries, all while staying true to its roots.
 
As we lament this turning point, there’s a fervent hope that whoever takes the reins will honour English’s heritage. The thought of this historic space—where oysters are shucked at a marble-topped bar and Dover sole is served with quiet pride—being transformed into a generic ghastly pizza parlour or burger joint feels like a betrayal of its soul. Brighton deserves better than to see one of its oldest treasures stripped of its identity. The new owner has a chance to inherit not just a business, but a legacy—a chance to keep alive the magic of English’s as a place where the past and present dine together.
 
English’s of Brighton is more than a restaurant; it’s a living chapter of the city’s story. As it awaits its next custodian, let’s raise a glass of crisp Sicilian white—recommended by the ever-knowledgeable staff—to its past glories and to a future where its spirit endures, unmarred by the clatter of a deep-fryer or the scent of mass-produced dough. May its new era be as rich and enduring as the one it leaves behind.

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