Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Reviews and Food Musings

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Fed up with celebrity chefs drizzling sauces over undercooked pieces of meat? I am!

I regularly dine out and am happy to share my restaurant experiences, and musings on food with you.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Sofia's Italian Restaurant (Brighton)

Sofia's Italian Restaurant (Brighton)

Sofia's Italian Restaurant, 24 Ship Street, Brighton, rather let themselves down last night.

They had run out of brandy, aside from this failure in restocking depriving me of my post meal quaffing it also buggered up my main course.

They failed to point out that my steak (allegedly cooked in a brandy and cream sauce) would be bereft of one of the key ingredients (ie the brandy).

Unsurprisingly the sauce was bland, the reason becoming clear only after I passed comment on it.

Why didn't someone just go out and buy another bottle?

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Cobblers!

Cobblers!

The Times warns that some less than honest fish and chip shops are passing off Vietnamese Cobblers (a flaky variety of Catfish) as Cod.

The Cobbler is less than half the price of Cod, so a dishonest chippie can make a very nice margin on falsely labelled fish.

You have been warned!

Friday, July 10, 2009

Pre Boiled Eggs

Pre Boiled Eggs

The Times reports that a pre hard boiled egg will soon be available in Asda and Waitrose.

Each egg will cost a staggering 45p!

What a complete rip off, in the same category as bottled water!

Only a fool would waste 45p on a pre boiled egg.

Saturday, July 04, 2009

The Terraces

Restaurant

The Terraces Bar and Grill
Madeira Drive
Brighton
BN2 1PS

Phone: 01273 545 250

Website www.the-terraces.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I decided to treat ourselves to an alfresco lunch on the seafront last week, and chose The Terraces.

The Terraces is an art deco bar and grill that serves Mediterranean and British food.

Ambience

The Terraces is a glass fronted two storey art deco rotund bar and grill, facing the seafront.

The decoration is modern, minimalist and cheerful, with an open fire inside for the winter, and decking outside for dining and drinking alfresco in the summer months.

We dined outside facing the sea, superb weather and superb views!

Menu

The Terraces offers a selection of Mediterranean and British dishes; eg bruschetta, fishcakes, Chorizo on sweet potato, Mezze, steak, pasta and fish and chips. On Sundays they also offer traditional roasts.

Service

The service was very friendly, cheerful and efficient. Nothing was too much trouble, and the jug of Pimms prepared by the staff was by far the best (wrt generosity of fresh fruit etc) that I have had when dining out.

Food

I opted for the rib eye steak, eschewing the pepper sauce for two fried eggs instead.

The steak was a decent piece of meat (cooked medium rare), and was tender and succulent. Ideally complemented by my two eggs and fries.

Eva opted for the rope grown mussels in white wine sauce. These were superb, and were served in an amusing large earthenware pot that resembled a flower pot.

A great lunch!

The bill (including a jug of Pimms, a pint and two Irish coffees) came to around £60.

Overall Opinion

We really enjoyed the lunch and liked The Terraces very much. I guarantee that we will return.

Friday, July 03, 2009

Ramsay On The Rocks

Ramsay On The Rocks

The accounts for Gordon Ramsay Holdings, for the year to August 2008, show a fall in pre-tax profits from £3M to £383K (a fall of 87%), and a fall in turnover of £6M to £35.6M.

The loan owed to RBS has quadrupled from £2M to £8M, despite a cash injection of £5M during the year.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Shepherd's Revisited

Shepherd's Revisited

My compliments to Shepherd's, which I revisited a fortnight ago with a friend.

I wrote in 2003 that the beef was meant to be carved on a trolley, but that I saw no evidence of such a trolley as my beef came ready carved.

Ironically we experienced the very same situation this time around, no sign of the trolley. However, having drawn the attention of the good people of Shepherd's to my 2003 review, I was taken into the kitchen (with good humour) to see said trolley.

It really does exist!

The beef, by the way, was first class!

Monday, April 27, 2009

Nasza

Restaurant

Nasza
22 St James Street
Brighton
BN2 1RF

Phone: 01273 622770

Website Under construction

Overview

Eva and I visited Nasza (pronounced Nasha), the very newly opened (less than a week) Polish restaurant on the site of what used to be the the St James restaurant, last Saturday.

Ambience

Nasza is decorated in the style of a rustic Polish bar/eatery. Diners can sit in the front (cafe style) area, at the bar or in the main part of the restaurant towards the back of the premises. Owing to a large skylight, the main area was a little drafty.

Inexplicably there was no salt on the tables, we had to request some. We also had to ask for our candle to be lit, a small issue but indicative of a lack of attention by staff.

Menu

Nasza serves a selection of traditional Polish dishes including; marinated herring, sausage platter, cabbage parcels, Polish dumplings, Polish stew, beef Goulash and pork knuckles.

Unfortunately, owing to some problems with the wine supplier, there was no wine menu and the only wine on offer was Paul Masson the over hyped Californian paint stripper.

Service

The service was friendly, if a little erratic as the staff were still finding their feet. The main course took a little while to arrive, probably due to the restaurant only being open for less than a week.

Food

I opted for the sausage platter to start with. This consisted of a generous selection of Polish sausages and charcuterie served with two slices of bread and butter. A very good starter.

I chose the Golonka for my main course. This was a slow cooked pork knuckle (similar to the German eisbein) served in a rich vegetable and beer sauce with mashed potatoes.

This was an excellent dish, hearty and tasty. The pork had been properly cooked, and the meat fell off the bone with little effort from my knife.

Eva started with the vegetable and white bean soup. This was tasty and of a decently thick consistency, an ideal comfort food.

She chose the Golabki for her main course. These were cabbage parcels stuffed with meat and rice, accompanied by mashed potatoes and a mushroom sauce.

This was a good quality dish in terms of portion size and taste. The cabbage parcels were delightful, and the sauce provided and excellent accompaniment.

We finished off with a number of chilled vodkas.

Inexplicably, despite having several vodkas available which were properly chilled, Nasza does not advertise the fact by having as vodka list. I regard this as a missed opportunity for building the brand and reputation of what could be a very decent local Polish restaurant. My advice is for Nasza to add to their variety of vodkas, and to publish a vodka menu.

Regarding the truly awful Paul Masson wine, we managed to drink a glass each then gave up as it was quite awful. I opted for a Polish beer instead. I recommend that Nasza ensure that their wine cellars are stocked with wine that is drinkable, and that they provide a wine list.

The meal, which included the undrinkable wine, came to £57 before service. Seemingly Nasza was also having teething problems with the credit card companies, and had not yet installed a system for accepting credit card payments; ie "cash only" was the policy of the restaurant. Clearly this issue needs to be addressed with urgency, as it will deter customers.

As a piece of general advice to all those wanting to open a restaurant, it is essential that issues such as this are addressed before opening (even if that means the opening has to be delayed); a bad impression created in the first few weeks is difficult to erase.

Overall Opinion

Nasza, once it has addressed the teething problems identified in this review, may well be worth visiting in the future. I wish them well, and hope they take on board my recommendations.

Opinion Now updated after another visit.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Nasza

I am pleased to see that the site of the Saint restaurant on St James Street Brighton has not been left empty for too long. A Polish restaurant called Nasza has now opened there (two days ago to be precise).

In the coming days we will visit it, and review it.

Friday, April 17, 2009

Ramsay's Rip Off

Ramsay's Rip Off

The Mail reporst that:

"Gordon Ramsay is serving customers ready-meals which are prepared in a London 'food factory' and sold with a mark-up of 586 per cent, it emerged today.

Dishes such as pork belly, coq au vin, braised pig cheeks and orange and bitter chocolate tart are prepared in bulk and then transported in plastic bags by unmarked vans to several of his restaurants across London.

The celebrity chef - who runs London’s only three Michelin-starred restaurant - uses the central kitchen, near railway arches and a council estate in Clapham, to provide food for his three gastropubs and Foxtrot Oscar, his bistro in Chelsea.
The Narrow in Limehouse, the Warrington in Maida Vale and the Devonshire in Chiswick are also supplied by the food factory
."

The article goes on to note that:

Fishcakes are sold by the central supplier for £1.92 are then priced at as much as £11.25 in the gastropubs - a mark-up of 586 per cent. Diners pay £3.50 for sausage rolls that cost 75p.

Somewhat ironic for the chef who was once quoted as saying:

"My food hell is any ready meal. It’s so easy to prepare a quick meal using fresh produce but people still resort to ready meals that all taste exactly the same."

Whilst the food may be perfectly decent and tasty, the rip off mark up is disgraceful. Diners should vote with their feet and boycott these places.

Thursday, April 09, 2009

The Blue Man

Restaurant

The Blue Man
11 Little East Street
Brighton
BN1 1HT

Phone: 01273 32 5529

Website www.bluemanrestaurant.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I visited The Blue Man restaurant in the Lanes area of Brighton the other week.

The Blue Man opened six years ago and was the first North African restaurant in Brighton. It operates from the premises that used to be Momma Cherri's Soul Food Shack.

Ambience

The restaurant is on two floors, and is sumptuously decorated with North African and Moroccan artifacts. In the basement you can recline on inviting divans, on the ground floor more traditional, but comfortable, tables and chairs are available. The lighting is subtle, and the atmosphere romantic and inviting.

An absolutely charming establishment!

Menu

The menu offers a variety of Moroccan/North African dishes (a la carte and set) including, soup, lamb sausages, Kefta (minced lamb in filo pastry), Halloumi, lamb shank with dates, fish and a variety of Tagines.

Service

The service was very friendly, warm, welcoming and efficient.

Food

I opted for pumpkin soup to start with, which was spicy and aromatic.

I chose the house speciality, Khrouf, a lamb tagine for my main course with couscous and a side dish of Batata Coucha (Moroccan tortilla – layered dish with potato, herbs and eggs).

This was absolutely first class, the lamb melted in my mouth and was complemented by the unctuous sauce it was cooked in of cinnamon, prunes and chickpeas. The couscous was just the right size to add bulk to the meal, and the side dish of Batata Coucha was perfect.

Eva started with the Merguez sausages (spicy handmade lamb sausages with steamed fennel, spinach and harissa). These were bloody marvellous, tender and flavoursome. I guarantee that I will have these next time that we dine there!

For her main course Eva opted for the other house speciality Maaza (goat tagine served with saffron couscous). This was a real delight, the meat was tender and flavoursome. She was very happy with her choice.

We shared a desert of grilled fresh figs with hot with ice cream and ginger honey. A lovely desert, and more than enough to share between the two of us.

The meal, which included a bottle of Cruzares Blanco and a couple of liqueurs, came to £61 before service.

Overall Opinion

A delightful evening and restaurant. We heartily recommend it, and will be most assuredly returning.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

The Curry College

The Curry College

Britain's Indian restaurants are facing a skilled staff shortage that, according to leading restaurateurs, threatens them with "catastrophe".

Sheikh Aklaq Ahmed, programme director at the Bangladesh Caterers' Association, claims that 30,000 extra staff are needed. In the past, staff would be recruited from overseas. However, the immigration system has been strengthened and this solution for staffing is no longer cost effective.

The solution being proposed is to set up a London School of Curry, which would train local chefs.

An excellent idea, the question is where will the funding come from?

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Bodega D Tapa

Restaurant

Bodega D Tapa
111 Church Street
Brighton

Phone 01273 674 116

Overview

Eva, myself and a friend dined at Bodega D Tapa last night, a regular haunt of ours when we have a hankering for some good quality Tapas.

Bodega D Tapa is a small wine-cum-grocery store and Tapas bar, which seats (at a guess) about 15 people inside and another 15 or so outside in the courtyard.

Ambience

Bodega D Tapa is intimate and rustic, small wooden tables and wobbly wooden benches add to its charm.

Given the size of the place you will be hard pressed to find a table on a busy Friday or Saturday. However, an option that we use is to pop in and ask for one to be kept for us in say 30 minutes, whilst we have a drink in the Waggon and Horses next door.

Menu

The menu offers a variety of Tapas including; pate, Spanish omelette, anchovies on bread, chorizo, chorizo casserole, a selection of Iberian meats (served on a wooden paddle) and fabada.

Service

The service is always enthusiastic and friendly. One person looks after the entire operation wrt service of food and drink, in a relaxed yet professional manner.

Food

We took a large number of dishes to share, which were all delightful. My particular favourites being the omelette and the fabada.

The meal, which included two bottles of wine and brandy coffees came in at well under £40.

Overall Opinion

A splendid establishment, which we are happy to frequent on a regular basis.

Thursday, February 05, 2009

National Chip Week

National Chip Week

February 9th-15th 2009 is National Chip Week, promoted by the Potato Council.

The UK's official ambassador for National Chip Week is Keith Chegwin.

Get your chip pans out and start frying, but do not set fire to your house in the process.

Monday, January 26, 2009

The Saint Restaurant Brighton

The Saint Restaurant Brighton

There appears to be some confusion over the fate of The Saint Restaurant on St James Street in Brighton. It is currently closed, and their website says that it is undergoing refurbishment with a view to reopening at the end of this month.

However, there is a sign in the window advertising the premises for lease, and there is absolutely no sign of any refurbishment taking place.

A pity, it was a pleasant place and the food was enjoyable.

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Pomegranate

Restaurant

Pomegranate
10 Manchester Street
Brighton
BN2 1TF

Phone 01273 628 386

Website www.eatpomegranates.com

Overview

Eva and I visited Pomegranate in the Kemp Town area of Brighton the other week.

Pomegranate is a contemporary Kurdish restaurant, that serves a range of middle eastern dishes.

Ambience

The restaurant is on two floors and is very cheerful, modern yet cosy and charming (it has exposed brick fireplaces and wooden floors). The walls are decorated with a number of pictures painted by Hassan Tunc, who is also the owner and head chef.

His wife, Zelal, is in front of house and provided us with a very warm and charming welcome.

The Tuncs have run Ararat restaurants in Dallas and Austin in Texas; Hassan is also well known in the art world with a gallery in Seattle, Washington, also training as a chef in France.

Menu

The menu offers a variety of middle eastern dishes including; Tabulli, stuffed peppers, shish kebabs, lamb and beef with pomegranate.

Service

The service by Zelal was charming, friendly, efficient, and extremely attentive. Nothing was too much trouble.

Food

I opted for chicken kebabs as a starter. These were delightful, lightly spiced and seasoned served atop a small salad. A first class starter.

My main course was lamb shank with a light apricot sauce, accompanied by rice. The shank had been braised gently for a number of hours. The meat was succulent, tender and flavoursome and fell of the bone.

Eva started with prawns with garlic and hot pepper, these were piquant but not overpowered by the garlic or pepper.

She then had the chicken breast topped with walnuts. The breasts were grilled and served with walnuts, butter and rice. A very pleasant dish, the walnut perfectly complementing the chicken.

We also shared a side dish of garlic mashed potatoes, which tasted fantastic.

Dessert, a rarity for us, consisted of a bowl of stuffed figs with walnuts, honey topped with pomegranate paste. They were absolutely delightful.

The meal, which included a bottle of Chablis and a large number of Irish coffees came to £105 including service.

Overall Opinion

A splendid restaurant, which is well worth visiting.