Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Reviews and Food Musings

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Fed up with celebrity chefs drizzling sauces over undercooked pieces of meat? I am!

I regularly dine out and am happy to share my restaurant experiences, and musings on food with you.

Monday, January 23, 2006

Torquay Loses Fawlty Towers Image

Torquay Loses Fawlty Towers Image

Torquay has finally shaken off its Fawlty Towers image of poor service and dreadful food, after the Michelin Guide has awarded stars to two of its restaurants.

The Elephant and Orestone Manor have both received Michelin stars.

The Elephant's head chef, Simon Hulstone, said:

"When I heard I was extremely excited and now I'm full of anticipation for the year ahead."

Friday, January 20, 2006

East is East?

East is East?

Owners of Indian and Chinese restaurants in the UK are now being asked to hire East European nationals to work in their kitchens and front of house, rather than source their labour supply from the Indian subcontinent.

Officials say that East Europeans would now need to be given preference in the labour market, after their countries joined the EU.

Ministers have reportedly told owners of Indian and Chinese restaurants that English should be spoken in kitchens, so that vacancies can be filled by East Europeans.

This move is causing discontent amongst the owners of the restaurants.

Representatives of Chinese restaurants have already lobbied with MPs to save the industry.

Ashraf Uddin, secretary-general of the Bangladesh Caterers' Association, said:

"Unless they know our culture, our language, our way of working, it's a complete mess."

Tuesday, January 17, 2006

The New Maharajah's

Restaurant

The New Maharajah's
17 Forrest Road
Edinburgh

Phone:- 0131 220 2273

Website www.thenewmaharajahs.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I spent a few days over Christmas in Edinburgh this year. We arrived on Christmas Eve and, with absolutely no plans, decided to pop out for a drink then something to eat.

Having imbibed of a few welcome drinks, we found that rather disconcertingly many of the restaurants we looked in on were in fact closed. The night was getting cold and we had almost resigned ourselves to returning to our hotel, and eating in, when we came across The New Maharajah's; an Indian restaurant serving Tandoori, Mughlai and Bengali cuisine.

The restaurant, situated near the famous Greyfriars Bobby pub, is under new management and claims to have been recommended by Egon Ronay and the Good Curry Guide.

Ambience

The restaurant was bright and cheerful, not one centimetre of flock wallpaper was in sight! Most especially welcome, on that rather cold damp night, it was warm and comfortable.

The walls are painted a light cream colour, the floors wooden parquet. The chairs are red velvet backed, comfortable to sit on and the tables laid with linen clothes and napkins.

Unlike many Indian restaurants, the background music was not a the usual selection of "Asian style" mood music, but an eclectic mixture of disco and Motown from the 1950's, 60's, 70's and 80's. In fact we rather enjoyed naming the tunes, but would note that the music was not intrusive.

Menu

The menu offered a good range of Tandoori, Biryani and Mughlai dishes; additionally there were a number of house specials and standard curries.

As with many Asian restaurants the New Maharajah offers a take away service as well.

Service

The staff were friendly and welcoming, even though it was 9:00pm on Christmas Eve they showed no sign of trying to rush us through our meal.

The service was attentive and efficient, and the staff were happy to explain the dishes when asked.

Food

I chose the lamb baja for my starter. This consisted of a most excellent and succulent chapatti, stuffed with minced lamb and spices. I was very impressed both with the taste and texture of this dish. It was, to my view, an ideal starter.

I chose the Jhallfrezie chicken for my main course, this is a marinated Tandoori chicken with fresh green chilli, coriander and garnished with ginger. It was spicy and flavoursome.

I had plain boiled rice and allo jeera (potato with cumin) to accompany it.

Eva started with the lamb kebab; this was a dish of succulent and tender Tandoori cooked lamb chunks in yoghurt and medium spices, served with a salad. The meat was good quality, and the spices not overpowering

Rather bravely, for her main course, Eva chose the chicken Balti Rooflifter. This dish, not surprisingly was very hot, I guess it had been created especially for the Scottish palate. It consisted of pieces of chicken in Balti spices, chopped onion, green pepper, mint, yoghurt coriander and Kashmiri massalla.

She chose pilao rice to accompany it.

She was delighted with this dish, even though it was by far the hottest that she has ever had.

It is fair to say that it opened the pores!

The meal, which included a good bottle of Pouilly Fuisse and liqueurs, came to £48 including service.

Overall Opinion

We had a splendid meal, and are more than happy to recommend the New Maharajah's as a place worth visiting when in Edinburgh.

Wednesday, January 11, 2006

Bellini

Restaurant

Bellini Restaurant
8a Abercromby Place
Edinburgh

Phone:- 0131 476 2602

Website www.bellinirestaurant.co.uk

Overview

Eva and I spent a few days over Christmas in Edinburgh this year. On Boxing Day, with no set plans for dinner, we took the advice of our hotel (The Balmoral) and visited Bellini Restaurant.

Bellini is an Italian restaurant and cookery school that aims to bring "a taste of Venice" to the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town.

Bellini is run by Angelo Cimini who, like his family, comes from a long established catering background. His hometown of Villa Santa Maria, has taught chefs since 1290 and exported them internationally through the centuries to all corners of the world. Angelo has cooked for Sophia Loren, Charlie Chaplin and Clint Eastwood; now he has also cooked for us!

Angelo spent several years in Venice cooking at many famous deluxe international hotels and restaurants, learning the "secret-kitchen" which has provided him with a wealth of knowledge and experience.

In addition to running the restaurant, Angelo also runs a cookery school from the same premises.

Ambience

The restaurant is set in an elegant Edinburgh town house. Our welcome was warm and friendly. We were shown to a private bar on the left of the entrance hall, where we perused our menus whilst sipping some champagne.

The decor is cosy and romantic and the dining room is intimate, not over crowded with too many tables too close together.

Blue is the colour of choice in the dining room, the walls are painted blue complemented by a blue carpet contrasted by the tables which are laid with white linen cloths and napkins.

As an additional festive touch, since it was still Christmas, we each had a Christmas cracker. We wore our paper hats with enthusiasm!

Menu

The menu, rather surprisingly for an Italian restaurant, contains little pasta. In fact, Angelo cooks what is in season and what he feels is appropriate. Hence a large part of the menu is not printed, but conveyed to the customers by word of mouth by the hostess.

The dishes offer a "fusion" of local Scottish produce with Italian culinary expertise.

One amusing touch during the menu "performance" was the presentation of the mushroom basket, which Angelo would use in some of his specials.

Service

The staff were very friendly and welcoming. The service was relaxed but attentive, I would not recommend the restaurant if you only have 30 minutes for a quick business lunch. However, to my view, you should not go to a good restaurant if you are in a hurry.

Angelo came out at the end of the meal and personally introduced himself to all of his customers. Which was a nice touch, and meant that he was able to hear first hand if there were any issues regarding the quality of food or service.

Food

I chose the chicken ravioli for my starter. This consisted of freshly made pasta stuffed with chicken, in a white wine and tarragon sauce.

It was thoroughly enjoyable, and was an ideal way to start the meal.

I opted for the 16oz veal T-bone for my main course. This was cooked medium, as requested, with a rosemary white wine and lemon sauce.

The veal was succulent and gorgeously tender. It was accompanied by sauté potatoes and French beans. I was very happy with my choice.

Eva started with scallops with mash. These were first class; the scallops were tender and flavoursome and were complemented by the creamy rich mashed potato.

Eva chose the chicken ravioli for her main course. She was as happy with this as I had been when I had it for my starter. I would note that of course, the main serving was larger than the starter portion.

The meal, which included a bottle of Chablis and liqueurs, came to just under £117 including service.

Overall Opinion

Bellini Restaurant is definitely worth visiting, and we shall certainly revisit when we are next in Edinburgh.

Monday, January 09, 2006

The Balmoral Christmas Day Brunch

The Balmoral Christmas Day Brunch

Eva and I stayed at the Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh over Christmas, and partook of their special Christmas Day Brunch on the 25th.

It was superb!

We dined in one of the function rooms that had been specially set aside for the brunch, and were warmly and cheerfully greeted by all the staff.

A glass of welcoming champagne whetted our appetites for the buffet feast to follow. This included:
  • Cereals, juices and yoghurts


  • Hams, smoked salmon and prawns


  • Scrambled eggs, Ayreshire back bacon, black pudding, tomatoes, Musk sausages (the Queen eats these when she stays in Holyrood), saute potatoes and mushrooms


  • Strawberries, chocolates and bread
We tucked in with gusto, I was even offered a plate of sausages to take back to the room for snacking on later.

At £37 per head, the brunch doesn't come cheap. However, Christmas is but once a year!

Friday, December 23, 2005

Turkey Tips

Turkey Tips

When cooking your turkey this Christmas don't forget, that when calculating the cooking time, to allow for the weight of the stuffing.

Make sure that the juices run clear from the thickest part of the bird, ie the leg area, before serving.

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Christmas Ham Made Simple

Christmas Ham Made Simple

Christams Hams

Here is an easy recipe for a gorgeous and succulent Christmas ham.

Select a good quality smoked gammon joint, plenty of fat and not skinned, not less than 2kg.

-Soak overnight in cold water

-Bring to the boil in fresh water

-Simmer for 20 minutes per pound

-Skin (put the skin in the stock, and use for making split pea soup)

-Stud the fat with cloves

-Smear the fat with a paste of brown sugar, egg yolks and English mustard

-Cover this with breadcrumbs

-Put in a pre heated oven (180 degrees) for 20 minutes, or until golden brown

-Allow to cool

-Eat when cold

Absolutely delicious!

Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Healthy Smoked Salmon

Healthy Smoked Salmon

Those of you who will tuck into smoked salmon this Christmas, thinking that you are eating at least one thing that is good for you may need to think again.

Channel 4 last night tested farmed smoked salmon, purchased from Britain's leading supermarkets, and came to the rather alarming conclusion that many of the leading products contained approximately 20% fat. This compares with the 6% fat content of wild smoked salmon.

Therefore for evey 100g of supermarket smoked salmon that you eat, you are eating 20g of fat. The recommended daily allowance of fat is around 90g.

Maybe it is better to stick to the mince pies!

Monday, December 19, 2005

How Much?

How Much?

We have all felt, at one time or another, that we have paid too much for a pint and that the breweries were "having a laugh" at the drinker's expense.

However, the prices that we pay in pubs for even the most "designer and trendy" of beers pale into insignificance when compared to the beer that costs you £32 per pint.

Yes, you did read that correctly, £32 a pint!

Deus, brewed in the Belgian village of Buggenhout, will set you back £32 a bottle in certai restaurants.

Aubergine, a Michelin starred restaurant in Chelsea London, has a beer list which includes pint bottles of Deus for £32.

The Bosteels brewery that brews Deus, which comes in at 11.5%, claims that they treat it like champagne.

Whilst they may treat it like champagne there is no way that it tastes like champagne, nor is there any justification for charging a champagne mark up.

The fact that restaurants are able to get away with charging ridiculous prices like this show that, regrettably, some customers have more money than sense.

Friday, December 16, 2005

Ramsay May Float

Ramsay May Float

Gordon Ramsay is reportedly considering floating his restaurant empire on the London Stock Exchange, in order to obtain funding to market Maze internationally.

Maze is a tapas style restaurant in Mayfair, London, which Ramsay wants to turn into an international chain.

Ramsay is quoted as saying:

"We'd be very stupid not to think about it. The level of interest we got on the back of publishing our accounts last year was phenomenal, so of course I'm interested in the idea of floating."

Gordon Ramsay Holdings consists of eight restaurants in London, and earned profits in 2004 of approximately £4M.

Ramsay made it clear that he won't give up control of his group, in order to ensure that standards are maintained.

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

To Serve Is An Honour

To Serve Is An Honour

It seems, that despite the fact that London's restaurants are now recognised as producing the world's finest food, they still can't get past that old "British disease" that waiters are doing the customers a favour by serving them.

That at least is the conclusion of the annual Square Meal restaurant guide survey.

Some of London's most famous restaurants, such as Cipriani, The Wolseley and Yauatcha, have been rubbished by their customers for the arrogant, surly and slow service.

One contributor is quoted as saying:

"I have learnt to be happy with inefficient staff as long as they are charming, and [with] charmless staff as long as they are efficient."

8,000 people replied to the guide's poll, 45% complained about shoddy service for the third year running.

Gaby Huddart, the guide's editor, is quoted as saying:

"Our restaurants are absolutely fabulous, but one aspect lets them down. If you go to Paris, it is a very rare day that you don't get very good service in an A-class restaurant.

Similarly, a New Yorker would be gobsmacked if you weren't served with a smile
."

Cipriani, which I featured in a positive manner on this site less than a fortnight ago, was criticised; one person described his visit as a "horrible experience".

The Wolseley was "snobby and unfriendly", "Just the most unhelpful and incredibly arrogant and rude receptionists that can be found."

It is time that staff and managers of these places realised that people are there as much for the experience, as for the food. A smile and a cheerful "can do" manner really does go a long way to making the meal memorable.

Monday, December 12, 2005

The Value of Chip Fat

The Value of Chip Fat

In one rather unexpected outcome of the recent Tory leadership battle, chip shops and restaurants have been told by David Cameron to collect their old cooking fat so that it can be used to fuel cars.

The chip fat proposal is being promoted by John Gummer, he of the "safe burger" claim in the 1980's, whom Mr Cameron has appointed one of the chairmen of the group overhauling the party's environmental policies.

Gummer claims that more than 75% of the 300,000 tons of waste fat produced by restaurants in Britain each year "goes down the drain, where it has a terrible effect on sewers".

However, the fat can easily be turned into an eco-friendly substitute for diesel. Gummer goes on to claim that it is even greener than other biofuels, since it causes the emission of much less carbon dioxide.

You learn something new every day!

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

King Cobra

King Cobra

Cobra Beer, beloved of many a curry aficionado, plans to start production in India to gain a foothold in an increasing market.

The firm was founded by Karan Bilimoria in 1989, and the beer is sold in most major UK supermarket chains and 6,000 restaurants throughout Britain.

Cobra says it is in talks about setting up a brewery and distribution centre in Hyderabad.

Cobra has fewer bubbles than many other lagers, so that it is easier to drink while eating.

Cobra now has an annual turnover of £80BN, and is exported to over 35 countries worldwide.

It also tastes good!

Monday, December 05, 2005

Cipriani

Cipriani

My compliments to Cipriani (25 Davies Street, London) for providing myself and two friends with a table for us to have a few drinks at this Saturday, despite the fact that we had just walked in off the street on a very busy night.

The service was professional and courteous; the champagne cocktails, that we indulged in, provided a splendid start to our evening.

I look forward to dining in Cipriani's one evening, and trying the food which looked delicious.

Friday, December 02, 2005

The Dangers of Salads

The Dangers of Salads

Those of you who think that you are being virtuous by having a salad in a fast food establishment, may have to think again.

Tests by Which? of items bought at McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken, have revealed that three salads were the saltiest options on the menus.

Each contained over 3g of salt per salad portion, this is over half the recommended maximum daily intake of 6g.

Which? also noted that the websites of Burger King and KFC were inaccurate, in respect of their food's nutrition content.

The report noted that there was in fact 19g of saturated fat in a Burger King Whopper and regular fries, which was 6g more than the 13g stated on the company website.

A KFC Zinger Crunch salad had 6.7g of saturated fat, almost treble the 2.4g stated by KFC. The company told Which? that discrepancies could be due to "over portioning" at some stores.

Which? editor Malcolm Coles said:

"Don't assume that a salad is always a healthy option - you could be getting a large helping of fat and salt on the side. Although fast food companies now offer more choice, it's hard to know what you're really getting."

Burger King said in a statement that the company website gave "typical" nutrition figures, intended as a guide for customers.

Fluctuations in ingredients used by staff could lead to some variations, it said.

The lesson here is, that if you are in fast food place, stick to the fries, burgers and chicken; at least you will feel full.